Análisis de la hidrodinámica de una zona costera a partir de la interacción ola-corriente
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Resumen: La interacción ola-corriente es uno de los procesos físicos que deben ser tenidos en cuenta las zonas costeras, ya que es de gran importancia para entender la hidrodinámica y morfodinámica. Empleando análisis de datos de campo y modelación numérica se pretende describir la hidrodinámica de la Isla Gorgona, localizada en el Pacífico Colombiano, y plantear una metodología para implementar la interacción ola-corriente y considerarla en los estudios de Ingeniería Costera. En este trabajo se encontró que las corrientes logran afectar el oleaje, ya que los refractan orientando las olas a la dirección en la que viaja la corriente, las frecuencias superiores a 0.18 Hz son las más afectadas. Las correlaciones entre las corrientes, los parámetros de oleaje y los factores del análisis componentes principales indicaron incrementos de alturas de ola y disminución de los periodos con el aumento de la magnitud de las corrientes la mayor parte del tiempo. Por medio de la modelación numérica se encontraron incrementos de la altura de ola hasta un 20% cuando se tuvo en cuenta el efecto de las corrientes, también se identificaron variaciones en otros parámetros como periodos, peralte, dispersión direccional, etc. Los resultados obtenidos permitieron plantear una metodología para implementar la interacción ola-corriente en zonas costeras.
Abstract: The wave-current interaction is one of the physical processes that must be considered in coastal areas, and it is very important to understand the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. Using field data analysis and numerical modeling is described the hydrodynamics of the Gorgona Island, located in the Colombian Pacific, and it is proposed a methodology to implement the wave-current interaction in studies of Coastal Engineering.It was found that currents can affect the short waves,refracting waves toward the direction in which the current travels, and the frequencies above 0.18 Hz are most affected. The correlations between the currents, wave parameters and factors of the principal components analysis indicated that wave height increases and decrease of period with the increase in the magnitude of the current most of the time. Through numerical modeling increases in wave height were found up to 20% when the effect of the current was taken into account, variations were also identified in other parameters such as periods, steepness, directional spread, etc. The results obtained allowed to propose a methodology to implement the wave-current interaction in coastal zones.
Abstract: The wave-current interaction is one of the physical processes that must be considered in coastal areas, and it is very important to understand the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. Using field data analysis and numerical modeling is described the hydrodynamics of the Gorgona Island, located in the Colombian Pacific, and it is proposed a methodology to implement the wave-current interaction in studies of Coastal Engineering.It was found that currents can affect the short waves,refracting waves toward the direction in which the current travels, and the frequencies above 0.18 Hz are most affected. The correlations between the currents, wave parameters and factors of the principal components analysis indicated that wave height increases and decrease of period with the increase in the magnitude of the current most of the time. Through numerical modeling increases in wave height were found up to 20% when the effect of the current was taken into account, variations were also identified in other parameters such as periods, steepness, directional spread, etc. The results obtained allowed to propose a methodology to implement the wave-current interaction in coastal zones.